Tips on HOW TO USE THE ROUTER and ROUTER TABLE
( From Handyman)
Tip 1:Make your own moldings
Finished molding and router bit
A good set-up and steady push result in a smooth, burn-free molding.
Photo 1: Shape board edges
Clamp feather boards to the fence and tabletop so they apply moderate pressure to the board. Feed the board through the router at a steady rate. Hook the notch on the push stick over the end of the board and use the stick to push the board past the bit at the end of the cut.
Router tables are great for cutting your own moldings. Using a router table
is easier and faster than using a router alone; you don’t have to clamp the
board. And narrow boards that are hard to shape with a router are a cinch on a
router table. Use feather boards and a push stick to protect your fingers (Photo
Start by tightening the bit into the router, mounting the router in the base and adjusting the height of the bit. Don’t worry about getting the fence square to the table; it doesn’t matter for this type of cut. If your bit has a bearing guide, lay a straightedge against the fence and adjust it until there’s a paper-thin space between the outer edge of the bearing and the straightedge. Clamp feather boards to the table and the fence (Photo 1) to hold the work against the bit. This allows you to concentrate on pushing the board.
To avoid burn marks from the router bit, feed the board at a steady rate without stopping. The rate of feed depends on the bit and type of wood. With experience, you’ll learn to judge the best rate by listening to the router and feeling the resistance as you push against the board.
Cuts more than about 3/8 in. deep can strain the router motor, put undue pressure on the bit, and leave a rough or chipped surface on the wood. To avoid this, adjust the fence so the bit removes about two-thirds of the wood with the first pass. Then readjust the fence and make the final pass at a faster feed rate.
Router Table Safety
Router bits spin so fast that they demand your constant attention. Accidents can happen suddenly. Here are a few of the most important safety rules:
·Always unplug the router when changing the bit.
·Push the bit into the collet. Then lift it to expose about one-quarter of the shank before tightening the collet nut. This will keep the bit from coming loose in the collet. At least two-thirds of the bit’s shank should be engaged in the router collet.
·Cover the bit with a guard whenever possible (Photo 1).
·Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
·Use feather boards and push sticks to keep your fingers away from the bit (Photo 1).
·Move work pieces from right to left against the fence.
·Move work pieces counterclockwise around a piloted bit (Photo 6).
·Never position the fence so the work piece is pushed between it and the bit.
Tip 2:Easy end-grain routing
Photo 2: Rout with a push block
Get tear-out-free end-grain routing. Screw a 2x2 handle to a 10-in. square of wood. Hold the work piece firmly against the wood square and push it past the bit. Maintain slight pressure against the fence to make sure the edge of the square push block stays in contact with the fence throughout the cut.
Shaping end grain with a router table and square push block (Photo 2) has three advantages over end-grain routing with a handheld router. First, you’re not limited to bearing-guided bits, since the fence is guiding the cut.
Second, unlike with handheld routers, it’s just as easy to rout narrow pieces as wide ones. And finally, the push block backs up the cut to eliminate the chipping and tear-out commonly associated with end-grain routing. Photo 2 shows how to use a simple square push block to support your work square to the fence as you guide it past the bit.
Tip 3:Plane perfectly straight edges on boards or plywood
It takes a little time and patience to set up your router table for planing
the edge of a board, but it’s worth the effort, especially for plywood edges.
Photo 3 shows you how. The smooth, straight surface left by the router bit makes
it easy to create an almost invisible seam when you’re gluing wood edging to
The key to the setup is shimming out the left half of the fence and aligning the bit with it. If your router table fence isn’t adjustable, you can attach a piece of plastic laminate to the face of the left half with double-faced tape so it can be removed when you’re done.
Here are a few of the tasks you can accomplish with this setup:
·Plane the edges of plywood panels before applying wood edging.
·Remove saw marks from the edges of ripped boards.
·Straighten the edges of boards so they can be glued together.
Tip 4:Freehand routing with a starting pivot
Small pieces that are difficult to hold down while you’re shaping them with a handheld router are easy to shape on a router table. Use a bit with a bearing guide that rides against the pattern. Photos 5 and 6 show a 1/2-in. carbide flush-trimming bit being used to duplicate a pattern.
You can also shape the edge of small pieces with any bearing-guided router
bit using this same technique. Pivot the wood against the starting pivot block
for greater control over when it contacts the bit. Some router tables have a
hole for a starting pin that serves the same purpose as the pointed stick we’re
using. It doesn’t matter what you use as a pivot as long as it’s firmly
attached and placed 2 to 3 in. from the bit.
Cut the pattern from MDF (medium-density fiberboard) or tempered Masonite. Sand the edges smooth because the router bit will transfer every imperfection in your pattern to your work piece. Rough-cut your work piece with a jigsaw and attach the pattern with small nails, hot-melt glue or double-faced tape.
Buying Router Tables
With a router table you don’t have to hassle with clamping the Work piece. Just guide it over the table and past the bit. You can build your own router table and fence using plans included in many basic router books. Or you can choose from dozens of commercially made tables. Buy the biggest tabletop you can afford; you’ll get more accurate cuts on long pieces. Fences with two adjustable, replaceable wood or particleboard sections mounted to a solid one-piece metal fence are the best. You can shim out one side (Photo 3) to plane board edges or slide the sections tight to the router bit to eliminate extra space around the bit.
Make sure the table has an easily adjustable bit guard and slots in the table to mount feather boards or other accessories. Removable base plates (photo) make it easier to mount your router and take it out to change bits and make height adjustments.
My comment: Router tables are not cheap. Anyone should be able to make a basic table with a little skill.
I make my own router table . But it is less sophisticated .There is no router lift .I have no problem .
I am sorry the writing on some of the images are not clear .. You have to squint really hard to read the writing on them . I tried to enlarge the images but the writing on them become more difficult to read.
The router does more than cut fancy edges. It'll also cut flawless dadoes and rabbets and perfect patterns. Our basics here show you how to set up and execute these cuts with outstanding results.
In this article, we'll show you the techniques you'll need to achieve perfect edge profiles, flawless dadoes and rabbets, and precision pattern cutting. The keys to routing clean edges are using a sharp bit and running the router in a counterclockwise direction around the top of the workpiece. That way, the bit pushes the router toward you rather than pulling it away, so it's easier to control and safer.
But the counterclockwise technique doesn't always work perfectly. There's a tendency for the wood to chip out at the corners. Solve the problem by "climb-cutting" (or cutting clockwise) for a couple of inches on the end grain at the "northeast" and "southwest" corners of the board. Then start anywhere on the workpiece and run the router around the wood counterclockwise. But if you're edge-routing the inside of something, like a picture frame, rout in a clockwise direction.
Always test your cuts on a similar scrap of wood to confirm proper cutting depth. If the wood burns, sneak up on the final cut depth by making three consecutively deeper cuts (see photos, below). Removing a little wood at a time will prevent burns.
Tip:Sand wood edges smooth before routing with edge trimming bits. Any flaw that the bearing encounters in the edges will be transferred to the new profile.
Make Deep Cuts in Stages to Prevent Burning
Making deep cuts in a single pass runs the risk of chipping the board and marring the finished profile. Make deep cuts in several passes, cutting deeper each time. Some wood species ten to chip more than others, so run a test on a scrap board of the same species.
Technique 2:Edge-routing narrow stock
Routing a smooth, clean edge profile on narrow pieces of wood is tricky. Clamps get in the way of the router and it's hard to keep the base from rocking on the narrow surface. Solve both problems by screwing to the workbench a support board that's the same thickness as the workpiece. Screw a stop to the bench at the end of the board to keep it from slipping. That gives the router a wider surface to rest on, eliminating any rocking, and forces the workpiece against the support board and the stop, so it doesn't need clamps.
Technique 3:Use a jig to cut dadoes
Dadoes (or grooves) are the cleanest, strongest way to invisibly support shelves on the sides of cabinets or bookcases. Once you try this jig, dadoes will become standard in your shelf-building repertoire. The easy way to make them is with a router and a straight bit plus a simple homemade jig. The jig is nothing more than a T-square made from a straight 2-ft. length of 1x2 screwed to a straight length of 1x6 (Photo 1). Make the 1x6 a few inches longer than the wood you're routing plus an extra 1-1/2 in. for joining the 1x2. Screw the jig together with 1-1/2 in. wood screws, using a carpenter's square to keep the jig perfectly square during assembly.
Buy a bit that matches the desired dado width so you can make the cut in one pass. Clamp the jig (front and back) on a test piece of wood, then set the straight bit 1/4 in. deep and make a pass through the right side of the "T" part of the jig and into the wood. Check the new dado with a square to make sure the jig is square and you're ready for the real thing. Plan and mark the dado locations on the workpiece, then line up the jig's groove with your layout marks, clamp the jig to the wood and dado away (Photo 2).
Cut only on the right side of the jig and push the router away from you; the turning direction of the router bit will pull the router base against the jig. If you rout on the left side of the jig, the router will tend to wander away from the jig and you'll wind up with a run-amuck dado.
Technique 4:Simple rabbet cutting
Rabbets are grooves that are cut into the back edge of cabinet or bookcase sides for insetting plywood backs. Rabbets conceal ugly plywood edges for a cleaner look. The key to good rabbets is to use special rabbet bits that automatically cut the perfect width. They're available at home centers and woodworking stores individually or in kits (Photo 2) that allow you to swap pilot bearings to adjust the rabbet width with the same cutting bit.
To use a rabbet bit, first select the pilot bearing that will cut a groove the same thickness as the plywood back. That way the plywood back will be flush with the back of the cabinet. Then adjust the depth of the router so the bit will cut about 1/2 in. deep, leaving plenty of surface for gluing and fastening. Cut counterclockwise.
Technique 5:Cut perfect patterns
Technique 5:Cut perfect patterns
Patterns allow you to make multiple copies of nearly any shape with a router and a bottom-bearing flush trim router bit. The key is a perfect pattern with smooth edges (Photo 2). Use 1/2- or 3/4-in. plywood, particleboard or fiberboard for the pattern. Thinner material won't give enough depth for the pilot bearing to ride on.
After you finish cutting the pattern and smoothing its edges, trace the shape onto the stock you're planning to cut. Cut out the shape with a band saw, jigsaw or scroll saw about 1/8 to 1/4 in. outside the line. Don't worry about getting a smooth, even cut; the flush trim bit will clean up the imperfections.
Attach the pattern to the stock with a few drywall screws, but be careful to select shank lengths that won't poke through the "show side" of the workpiece. If both sides will show, use thin brads and carefully pry the pieces apart after routing and patch the holes. Then it's just a matter of flipping over the assembly, clamping, and running the flush trim bit around the pattern to create the duplicates.
You may not be able to finish the edge in one continuous motion. Depending on the shape, the clamps may get in the way. You'll probably have to stop, shift the piece, reclamp and resume routing to finish the edge.
Router Bit Savvy
Router bits come in two types, carbide-tipped and high-speed steel. Don't waste your money on high-speed steel bits. They're cheap, but they won't hold an edge for long and they don't have ball-bearing pilots, so you're more likely to burn and tear the wood. Carbide bits cost about three times as much as high-speed steel ones, but they stay sharper at least 10 times longer.
Router bit shanks come in two diameters, 1/4 in. and 1/2 in. Examine the collet (where the bit inserts) on your router to determine the bit shank size(s) it can handle. Some routers will only accept 1/4-in. shanks, while others come with substitute collets or collet-adapting sleeves so you can switch back and forth between shank sizes (photo above). Generally speaking, buy 1/2-in. shank bits (see Technique 3, Photo 3, above) if you can. With that size, there's less deflection in the shank, which means less wobble and cleaner cuts.
Router Table by Upcycling a Kitchen Countertop
An old chunk of countertop and 40 bucks' worth of hardware
Make a easy-to-store, pro-quality router table for almost nothing by upcycling a discarded laminate kitchen countertop and the metal angle from an old bed frame.
What is upcycling?
"Upcycling" is the creative art of turning discarded items into beautiful or useful objects that are better than the original material. In other words, it’s what DIYers have been doing for centuries. We just didn’t have a trendy name for it before.
Twenty years ago, I barely had enough money for a router, much less a router table. So I built a quick, crude version from a hunk of old countertop supported by steel rails from a bed frame. I always intended to upgrade, but when I test drove other tables, I always found that I liked my homemade one better. It’s tough, easy to take to job sites and easy to store. But my favorite feature is the screw-on fence face. In two minutes, I can switch to a face with a larger hole for larger bits or a super-tall face for vertical routing. And since it’s replaceable, I don’t mind driving screws into it to secure featherboards or guides.
Over the years, I’ve built three of these tables—including an 8-ft. version for making long trim. The only tricky part is cutting the hole for the router plate, so this article will focus on a goof-proof method for that. For the rest of the project, cut and assemble the parts as shown in Figure A.
The first step is to cut up the section of countertop. Some countertops have a hump just above the rounded front edge. If yours does, you’ll have to cut off a couple of inches and lose the finished front edge. Next, cut off the backsplash. Lay the countertop upside down and clamp on a straight board to guide your circular saw. You can make the other cuts with a circular saw or table saw. Keep in mind that saw teeth leave chips as they exit plastic laminate. To avoid chipping, cut with the laminate face up on a table saw or face down with a circular saw. A cut laminate edge is sharp enough to slice skin. To dull those sharp edges, make a few quick passes with sandpaper.
After the table’s cut to size, create a hole for the router insert plate. Place the insert plate 3-1/2 in. from the back edge of the table and build a guide around it (Photo 1). My guide is 1/2 in. thick; perfect for a 1-in.-long pattern bit. For a shorter or longer bit, use thicker or thinner material. Before cutting the groove (Photo 2), set the router bit depth. Stack two scraps of the guide material and the plate. Set your router on the plate and adjust the depth. To finish the hole, cut along the inner edge of the groove (Photo 3).
Build the fence as shown in Figure A. Assemble the fence with screws and glue where particleboard meets particleboard; screws alone where plastic laminate meets particleboard. Drill pilot holes and use coarse-thread screws; fine-thread screws won’t hold. To cut the slots in the fence base (A), drill 1/2-in. holes and then cut with a jigsaw. Two of the fence brackets (E) are double thick. To make them, glue scraps together back to back and then cut them to size. The size of the dust pen hole depends on the size of your vacuum hose. I bought a rubber vacuum hose adapter and cut off the stepped end. To fasten the fence face, drive 1-1/2-in. screws through the backer (B) into the face. Before you drill the T-nut holes and install the T-nuts (Photo 4), mark their locations using the fence base as a guide.
Choosing a plate
Insert plates made for router tables start at about $30 for a basic model like the one shown here (Rousseau 3509, available through our affiliation with Amazon.com). Search online to browse a huge selection. For about half the price, you can also make your own plate from an acrylic sheet (at least 1/4 in. thick; available at home centers). Despite my legendary cheapness, I prefer the manufactured versions; better results, less fuss. My one complaint is that they’re not always perfectly flat. But when I sentence them to a couple of days of corrective clamping, they flatten nicely.
Router Table Plans
Stability, storage and a whole lot more
Once you mount your router in a router table, you might never remove it. Use these plans to build this router table and change your woodworking world.
Rock-solid router table
A handheld router is an amazingly versatile tool in its own right. But if you turn it upside down and mount it under a table, that same router is capable of a whole new set of tasks. I designed this router table to be solid, stable, easy to build and easy to use.
The joinery is simplicity itself. Just butt joints and screws—no miters, no fuss. But don't get me wrong. Simple doesn't mean second-rate. This table will withstand years of hard use and offers most of the features found on high-end manufactured models.
8 Great features
1: Double dust collection Vacuum ports in the cabinet and fence provide suction both above and below the router bit, making this router table one of the cleanest machines available.
2: Super storage A big, deep drawer lets you corral all your routers and accessories in one convenient place. Door-mounted bit holders—just wood scraps with drilled holes—let you find the right bit instantly.
3: Safe, convenient switch The external switch lets you switch your router on without opening a cabinet door. When making stopped cuts, you can even switch it off with your knee, leaving both hands free to hold the workpiece. The switch is optional; you can use the switch on the router.
4: MDF for stability The cabinet, top and fence are mostly MDF, which comes flat and stays flat. MDF is also heavy. The extra weight makes this router table stable and dampens router vibration.
5: Fully adjustable fence The sliding fence faces let you adjust the opening up to 3 in. wide. A pair of clamps locks the fence in position—simple, quick and reliable.
6: Rock solid top The top is a thick sandwich: 3/4-in. MDF between layers of 1/4-in. hardboard. It won't warp, sag or flex, no matter what you run across it.
7: Tough work surfaces Wood is surprisingly abrasive and grinds away at finishes and other surfaces. But the laminate top and fence faces on this router table will stay smooth and slick for years. The laminate is optional, though. If you skip it, you'll save about $30 and a few building steps.
8: Movable but solid Hard plastic furniture glides let you easily slide this router table across the floor. But unlike casters, the glides won't wobble or cost you a fortune.
Choosing a router for a table
There is no wrong router for a table. Over the years, I've seen all kinds of routers work just fine in tables: big ones, small ones, fixed-base and plunge models. That said, most serious woodworkers I know prefer fixed-base routers in tables. And everyone agrees that bigger is better; most pros use a 3-hp model.
If you're in the market for a new router, consider a "combo kit" (one motor, a fixed base and a plunge base). That way, you can mount one base in the table and quickly transfer the motor to the other base for hand-held routing. Also consider a model that allows above-the-table height adjustment. By inserting a shaft through the tabletop, you can raise or lower the router. Very precise, very convenient. Craftsman, Milwaukee, Porter-Cable, Ridgid and Triton offer this option on some models.
I designed this router table for easy construction. It's mostly a matter of cutting the parts in the Cutting List and assembling them as shown in Figure A. But before you get started on the cabinet, think about the height of your table. I made mine 34-1/4 in. tall to match the height of my table saw. That way the router table can act as an outfeed support for the saw or vice versa. If you want to do the same, you may have to alter the height of the sides and back.
Cut all the cabinet parts (parts A – G) and band them with hardwood edging (S – W). I used maple. When gluing on the edging, I used masking tape to hold it in place until the glue set, though there were some stubborn spots where I needed the extra force of clamps. The edging has two purposes: It protects the edges of the MDF, which are prone to chipping and denting, and it just plain looks good when the router table is finished.
With all the parts edged, I assembled the cabinet using washer-head screws. You could use other types of screws, but washer heads eliminate the need to drill countersink recesses, add some strength, and—like the edging—they look good.
Important: Before you screw in the middle shelf, measure the height of your router and make sure the shelf location will allow you to remove the router motor from the base. I placed the shelf 12 in. from the top, but your router might require more space. This may also change the height of your drawer parts.
When the cabinet is complete, hang the doors using "wrap" hinges (Photo 1). There are several styles available; just be sure to use a "full overlay" version since the doors fully cover the front edges of the sides. The hinges I used are item No. 00H5833 at leevalley.com. Nail on the furniture glides, mount the external switch and cut one hole for the power cord and another just above the middle shelf, sized to suit your vacuum hose. You'll also have to cut a hole in the top of the cabinet, but leave that for later.
Think of the top as a sandwich. The MDF core (D) is the meat and the 1/4-in. hardboard (N) is the bread. Here's the recipe: First, glue one layer of hardboard (cut about 1/2 in. larger than the final size) to the MDF core (Photo 2). I pressed the parts together using a slab of MDF as a platform, 2x4s and clamps. This is a complicated glue-up, and I strongly recommend that you make a dry run complete with all the clamps first.
For a simpler approach, use weights. Lay the hardboard on a perfectly flat, sturdy surface, apply glue and set the MDF core on it. Then set weights on the MDF—lots of weights. Six 5-gallon buckets of water will fit nicely on the sandwich and apply plenty of weight (just be careful not to spill!).
When the glue has dried, trim the hardboard (Photo 3) and cut a hole through the hardboard and MDF, using your router base as a template to mark the hole. You can center the hole in the tabletop as shown in Figure A. But I like extra support in front of the router bit, so I centered the hole 8 in. from the back of the tabletop. When you've cut the hole, center the tabletop on the cabinet and trace the hole onto the cabinet top. Then cut a hole in the cabinet top at least 1/2 in. larger than the hole in the tabletop. Now add the second layer of hardboard to the tabletop. But don't cut a hole in it. The upper layer of hardboard forms the work surface and supports the router.
To complete the tabletop, add the hardwood edging, followed by the plastic laminate (Photo 4). Ease the edge of the table with a chamfer bit to prevent chipping the brittle laminate. While you're laminating the top, go ahead and laminate stock for the fence faces too. If you have extra laminate, make extra faces to replace damaged ones later.
Now you're ready to install the router. Using a hole saw, drill a router-bit hole sized to suit your largest router bit. Then mark and drill screw holes (Photo 5) so you can fasten your router base to the tabletop. When you bore countersink holes through the laminate to accommodate the screw heads, go slowly and cautiously. There's just slightly more than 1/4 in. of material there; bore too deep and you're in big trouble. With the router base mounted, the tabletop is complete. Center it on the cabinet and fasten it with screws driven from inside the cabinet.
The fence base and rail will come from one piece of MDF. Cut this blank to 8-5/8 x 32 in. and drill a 3-in. hole in the center with a jigsaw or hole saw. Rip the blank in half and you've got both parts, perfectly matched (Photo 6).
Now it's time to put your new table to work! You'll use it to cut slots in the fence rail, which allow the fence faces to slide in or out. First, mark the slot location on the fence rail (Figure A). Then drill a 5/16- in. hole at both ends of each slot. Chuck a 5/16-in. straight bit into your router and raise it to a height of about 7/8 in. above the tabletop. Set the fence rail on the router table so the bit protrudes through the first hole on your left.
Clamp on a temporary fence, turn on the router and push the stock from right to left (Photo 7) until the bit enters the hole at the other end. Turn off the router and let the bit completely stop before you move on to the next slot. (Aren't you glad you added that external power switch?) Join the two fence halves with glue and screws. Add the triangular fence supports (K) and the dust port (P).
The fence faces need 3/4-in. recesses to countersink the carriage bolt heads and 5/16-in. holes for the bolt shanks. The holes must align perfectly with the slots on the fence rail, so it's a good idea to cut a fake fence face from a scrap of MDF, drill the holes and test the fit. If the fit is right, use the fake as a pattern to drill the fence faces. Bolt on the faces and your fence is ready for action.
I built the drawer box last so I could use the router table to cut the 1/4-in.-deep rabbets in the drawer sides (BB). But you could skip the rabbets altogether and simply make the drawer front and back (AA) 1/2 in. shorter. I mounted the drawer on full-extension slides, though other styles would also work. I gave the drawers, doors and cabinet two coats of polyurethane finish, inside and out. Then I added door pulls and magnetic catches and congratulated myself on a great addition to my wood shop.
. Overall dimensions: 34-1/4" tall x 32" wide x 23" deep.
These materials are available at most home centers, though the plastic laminate may be a special-order item.
Additional materials: wood glue, 2" washer-head screws, 1-5/8" screws, contact cement, polyurethane finish
We ordered the following items from rockler.com: safety power tool switch, No. 20915; and nail-on furniture glides (pack of 4), No. 18665.
Use this exploded view to help you construct the
MDF Cutting diagram
Use this diagram to lay out the cuts for your 4' x 8' x 3/4" MDF sheets.
I don’t think you can get a router faceplate for a router table in Malaysia. So you have to find a way of making your own . You can easily get a machine shop to make an aluminum faceplate if you can supply the shop with a design for a particular router . You can screws for mounting your router from specialist shops selling nuts and bolts. Do not force coarse thread screws into the router mounting holes as thi will definitely damage the screw threads on the router.
Materials like aluminum, steel , hardboard , plastic and mdf can be used to make a faceplate.
You can use plywood or mdf for the table top. I think hardboard is not suitable as it is impossible to cut a rebate to support the router.
About my homemade router table
T he above image shows the router table fitted with my 3hp router . The router is rather too heavy for manual handling . The table can be used with my smaller Hitachi router by changing the base plates. I add a hanging extension table to the router table.
The base plate is made of 3/8 inch thick fiberglass plate . (Plastic and aluminum are also suitable materials It is fixed to the cutout with 4 screws which are countersunk. Sometime I do not screw down the faceplate as the weight of the router is sufficient to hold it down .
To use the Hitachi router I just lift out the base plate of the big router together with the router and replace the faceplate with the one made for Hitachi router. I make lifting holes on two sides of the table top.
This is the base plate for my Hitachi router . The router is fitted to the base plate with two screws . Other routers might have four screw holes .
The cheapest and the simplest router table.
The image above shows a very simple minimalist router table made of ¼ inch thick plastic sheet. The plastic is formerly a boat window and that is why it is full of scratches. The table is a simple frame with an oversize square base plate.
I used one inch square beading for the frame . Two opposite side legs are made longer so that I could screw the table down to the workbench or clamp it down with G clamps . If I need a fence I clamp another piece of straight lumber to the plastic plate. Quick and dirty way of making a router table.
I won’t dare to use this table with heay duty routers. Who knows , the table and router might choose to fly away. Flying away from me might be alright but not towards me.
Thin plywood and mdf are to flimsy to use to make this router table.
My router table is not beautiful but it works . I am satisfied with it, and that is important.
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